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| Constantin Joffé, American Vogue, September 1945. © 1945 Condé Nast |
Fashion and photography seemed to be everywhere in Paris last month! Another exhibition I loved is Papier glacé: un siècle de photographie de mode chez Condé Nast (Coming into Fashion: a Century of Photography at Condé Nast) at the Palais Galliera Museum of Fashion. Containing 150 original prints from some of the most celebrated fashion photographers of the early 20th century to the present day, the show is not organized chronologically or by artist, but instead by theme, I think a far more interesting way to look at the work. The perfectly curated images are breathtaking in person. We’re talking about Norman Parkinson and Herb Ritts and Man Ray and Deborah Turbeville and George Hoyningen-Huene and Bruce Weber and Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin and Irving Penn… Also included are contemporary fashion films, screens for exploring various Condé Nast publications and select haute couture. And if you’ve not been to the Palais Galliera, there is a lovely, open garden with a sort of dreamy view of the Eiffel Tower.
Papier glacé: un siècle de photographie de mode chez Condé Nast runs through May 25.
One of the most fascinating exhibitions in Paris right now can be found at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Dries Van Noten: Inspirations. It’s not quite a career retrospective, nor even a fashion exhibition, but rather, a show about the creative process of the brilliant Belgian designer himself. Contained within some 15,000 square feet, it feels remarkably intimate in its vast, two level space. The content itself, more than 400 pieces, feels intimate too — a first-time invitation into the world of Dries Van Noten and his tremendous array of inspiration which includes film, photography, fine art, music, nature and fashion, from multiple centuries and multiple countries. Cecil Beaton, Bronzino, Elizabeth Peyton, Jacques-Émile Blanche, Paul Poiret, Francis Bacon, Balenciaga. Van Noten’s far-ranging stylistic references are another important element in the installation such as feathers, butterflies, Orientalism, India and the uniform. And I loved David Michalek’s Slow Dancing film, with his wife Wendy Whelan as one of the featured performers, a special commission for this exhibition.
Dries Van Noten: Inspirations runs through August 31, 2014
www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr/
Despite a fair amount of time spent in Paris over the last several years, I visited the Montparnasse Cemetary for the very first time last month. I can’t believe it has taken me this long! The art and architecture contained within this dense, peaceful 47-acre space (created from three separate farms in 1824) is very inspiring.
I must have spent at least two hours there, some of it just wandering aimlessly and some of it purposely seeking out my artistic and intellectual heroes of the last century. This venerable list included Constantin Brâncuși, Henri Laurens, Tristan Tzara, Brassaï, Simone de Beauvoir, Jean-Paul Sartre, Charles Baudelaire, and Jacques Demy, along with many others. I was particularly pleased to discover, by chance, the captivating marker of the celebrated French aviator, Maryse Bastié. And I was particularly grateful to the lovely gentleman, carefully tending to the grave of a family member, who offered to help me search for the rather hard to find grave of Man Ray and Juliet May Ray, simply in exchange for a tissue. There is indeed a wealth of kindness in this world.
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| Charles Marville (1813-1879), Corner of rue de Bac and rue Saint-Dominique, Paris, ca. 1874. Photograph Musée Carnavalet, Paris. |
I’m back from my beautiful trip to Paris, where I found spring(!) and about which I’ll be writing for the near future, no doubt. Before I left, I went to see a very interesting exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum, Charles Marville: Photographer of Paris. Commissioned by the city to photograph both pre- and post-Haussmann renovated Paris, Marville’s images are a tremendous documentation of this once medieval city transformed into one of the most grand in Europe. This installation of roughly one hundred images is fantastic and well worth a visit. While you’re there, make sure to take a look at Paris as Muse: Photography, 1840s-1930s in the adjacent Howard Gilman Gallery in the museum.
Charles Marville: Photographer of Paris and Paris as Muse: Photography, 1840s-1930s both run through May 4.
I’ve got Paris on my mind this week (I’m heading there on Saturday!) and have been closely following Paris Fashion Week. The two collections that have spoken to me the most are Haider Ackermann and Valentino. Haider Ackermann presented an exquisite, quietly luxurious collection in the most gorgeous, relaxed fabrics and neutral color range. I swoon.
Valentino presented their collection today, which I watched via live stream this morning. By far my favorite work of Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli since they became the Creative Directors in 2008. At once modern and romantic, this collection feels exactly right. The cuts and palette as a whole are lovely, the capes and leather pieces are fantastic and the dresses, skirts and sweaters are just so beautiful.
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| Fortunato Depero, Skyscrapers and Tunnels (Gratticieli e tunnel), 1930. MART, Museo di arte moderna e contemporanea di Trento e Rovereto, Italy © 2014 Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York/SIAE, Rome. Photo: © MART, Archivio Fotografico |
What looks to be an amazing exhibition is opening today at the Guggenheim Museum. Italian Futurism, 1909-1944: Reconstructing the Universe is a major multidisciplinary installation including fine art, film, fashion, design, performance, architecture and the written word (to name a handful) from this tremendously influential, avant-garde movement that essentially revered the new — technology, speed, industry, youth, urbanism. The first show devoted to Italian futurism in the United States, it includes more than 300 works organized chronologically over its 35 year period, and is poised to be one of the standout exhibitions of the year. I know where I’ll be this weekend.
Italian Futurism, 1909-1944: Reconstructing the Universe runs through September 1 at the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum
www.guggenheim.org
I am a big fan of Organic by John Patrick and I am LOVING his autumn/winter 2014-15 collection presented on February 5. Exactly what I want to be wearing right now.
www.organicbyjohnpatrick.com
I love going to the opera. I adore the beauty and spectacle of it all, the total work of art. The Metropolitan Opera’s new production of Johann Strauss’ Die Fledermaus certainly did not disappoint. Set in fin-de-siècle Vienna, there was definitely a Gustav Klimt aesthetic in place, most evident in Act II, a glorious, glittering black and gold New Year’s Eve ball. Delightful and fun, the perfect way to spend Saturday night.
Die Fledermaus runs through February 22.
www.metoperafamily.org
As part of the NYCB Art Series, a breathtaking installation by celebrated French street artist and photographer, JR, is currently on view at the David H. Koch Theater. In addition to the 6,500 square foot image of the company forming an eye amidst white paper sets that is affixed to the floor of the promenade level within the theater, there are also several wood panels with transferred images of the dancers and a massive, ethereal image pasted to the building’s facade. The entire exhibition is incredibly inspired and simply gorgeous to experience in person. The installation was open to the public all last week and will be in place during the winter season, if you are lucky enough to have tickets, which runs through March 2.
Check out this video about the artist and the creation of his NYCB series.
Today is Gertrude Stein’s birthday, it’s my birthday too. I love sharing a birthday with her and without fail find a reason to make mention of this each and every year. Here is a bit of proof. This year I would like to discuss the recently published 75th anniversary edition of her charming book, The World Is Round, illustrated by Clement Hurd. This reprint is gorgeous in the very same size as the first edition and with the same striking blue illustrations and text on the same lovely rose paper. This brand new version also includes two interesting essays, one by Hurd’s son, artist Thacher Hurd and one by his wife, writer Edith Thacher Hurd, both of which add enormously to the story of this great collaboration. In fact I never knew that Clement Hurd studied in Paris with Fernand Léger and other modernists — of course Stein chose him as her illustrator. The World Is Round is indeed a treasure. Happy Birthday Gertrude!
The World Is Round by Gertrude Stein (HarperCollins Publishers, 2013)
